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jerbtakersonice

[ website | Justin Kinsey, Anthony Oliver, Joe Badami, and Bryan Picarello ]
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The End [Dec. 25th, 2006|11:06 pm]
I was exhausted on Tuesday afternoon. The last day of my 3-day K-Day weekend, it was spent the same way as the previous day, training with the rest of the department. We had been given permission to use an old building for training purposes. This would be the first time we had been able to flow water during training since Winfly, and since it was scheduled for demolition, we were allowed to smash windows and walls and all that jazz. At my urging, we ran several scenarios; a fire with people trapped, a collapse preventing entry, injured firefighters requiring extrication, etc. It was a great chance for everyone to work together.

Sadly, that’s where the fun ended.

That night everyone got a page. “Shift change is mandatory for everyone tomorrow.” Even those who were off the next day were required to come in. I made some phone calls, asking if anyone knew what was going on. Nothing. No one had a clue. I guess we’ll find out tomorrow.

As the firefighters were talking in the apparatus bays, making coffee, or watching SportsCenter in the dayroom, the officers met in the training room to hear the news. The Chief announced the resignation of one of the firefighters due to personal reasons. “That sucks,” I thought to myself. The fire department is a very tight group, and the loss of one of its members is always a blow, no matter who it is. Then Chief started saying something I never thought I’d hear her say. Chief had decided to resign. [Legally, I should say that the rest of this paragraph is my opinion only. Logically, well, you should be able to figure it out.] Some background… This year, the fire department was placed under the Airfield Manager’s supervision in Raytheon Polar’s corporate organizational structure. This person’s qualifications for the position are non-existent. This person liked to meddle with the department as much as possible, and made our Chief’s life hell. Our Chief was a great administrator, but a person can only take so much.

Our Chief had enough of this guy’s antics, and she was not going to do it anymore. Upon hearing this, I felt angry. I could not believe that this company was going to allow the airfield manager to run the Chief out of her department (a department she had been with for 9 seasons). “I can’t stay here. I can not work for a company that will allow this to happen. It’s not right,” I thought to myself. I made my decision without having to give another moment’s consideration.

“I’m going to resign also,” I told the other officers in the room. Today would be my last shift.

We went out to meet the troops. The entire department, save 5 firefighters still out at the runway and the 4 who were at the South Pole, was waiting with anticipation. We discussed the daily business; today’s activities, how training went the yesterday, issues with the apparatus, etc. Then Chief made the announcement. Every face in the circle was painted in disbelief. Our small little world came crashing down around us with abrupt force. The meeting ended, but no one was leaving. A-Shifters stayed around and were talking to the B-Shifters who were now on duty. I walked in my office to write my resignation letter, and a supporting document, for me to give to the HR rep when he came by. The rest of the day was a blur. Nothing really got accomplished from an operational standpoint. We checked our vehicles, but beyond that, there was just no sense of motivation.

That afternoon, the station manager came by to talk to Chief. A deal was made. Conditions were set that would allow for Chief to stay, not have to report to the airfield manager anymore, and keep the airfield manager out of her hair. HR offered to rescind the resignations, and just like that, everything changed. Chief and I weren’t leaving, and she had brought enough attention to the matter to generate change. That evening, we had another department-wide meeting. Chief explained what had happened, and everyone left with a renewed feeling of encouragement.

24 hours later, we were once again having our shift change meeting. Everyone had a smile on their face, as they should. B-Shift went home, and I went back in my office to finish up a few things from the day before. Another lieutenant and the A-shift Captain came in, and after a few minutes of chatting, Chief walked in. She told us that Raytheon Polar’s CEO heard about what happened, and decided that he didn’t like the deal that took place. He instructed McMurdo’s Station Manager to accept Chiefs resignation and keep everything else the way it was. “Are you on your way to HR?” I asked the Chief. She answered with a defeated “yep.” “I’m right behind you,” I replied.

We arrived at HR to arrange our travel from Christchurch. The C-17 was leaving in 6 hours, and we had to pack up all our stuff, run a few quick errands, try to have some lunch, and get out to the airfield. After standing in HR for a few minutes as Chief was getting her travel arrangements made, I decided I’d get a start on my packing and come back to schedule my plans in an hour or so. I walked down the hall and was met by ¾ of B-Shift, who heard what had happened in less than 10 minutes. Those who stood there did so in disbelief. The rollercoaster finally jumped the tracks.

After stopping by the firehouse to grab my things I went back to my room. I was joined by Oliver and Joe, as well as John, who also arrived at Winfly. A few others passed through as I packed a box with stuff that wouldn’t fit in my luggage, and jammed the rest into my bags. God damn it. I felt so defeated. I was actually packing up, throwing in the towel. Green Day’s “Boulevard of Broken Dreams” played on my computer just as randomly as it did when it played on the radio the day I quit Hereford Ambulance. How appropriate.

The blur-effect went into overdrive until it came time for the farewell meeting. The entire department, save for the guys at the runway and those at the Pole, gathered at the firehouse. The Chief thanked everyone for her support, and everyone did likewise. Folks said things that folks say at an event such as this, and everyone got their pictures with their favorite departing employee(s). It was a very emotional hour. The Chief had worked with some of the people in the department for a few seasons. I had only been in Antarctica for four months, but I felt I made some decent friendships during that time, all of which I would be sad to leave.
The Captains drove us out to Pegasus Airfield in the department’s van, saving us from a trip on ‘public transportation.’ As we waited for the C-17 to land, we laughed amongst ourselves as we tried to call the ARFF (aircraft firefighting) truck sitting next to us over the radio, the driver and firefighter visibly asleep. We had all been there, falling asleep while waiting for these planes to finally show up. The firefighter eventually heard us and woke up. “Go ahead,” he said in a grumbled voice, nudging the driver to wake him up. “Disregard,” said Captain Meyers, trying not to laugh.

The C-17 eventually landed and we said our goodbyes to the Captains. I took one last look towards Mount Erebus, trying to capture the moment as I had when I first stepped off the plane on that cold, cold day. I found myself a seat next to the Chief for our 5 hour trip back to Christchurch. “What a day,” I joked. About an hour into the flight I decided to try to get a little sleep, and found myself a place on the floor in-between some random shipping containers, passing out there until we started our approach into Christchurch.

We landed a little after 2 in the morning, and it was raining. And dark. We spent 9 [uneventful] hours in Christchurch before heading to Auckland, our only stop before LA. We enjoyed a nice lunch and a couple drinks at some random airport pub before boarding our 12 hour flight back across the dateline. I watched Al Gore’s “An Inconvenient Truth” during the flight, and thought about the fact that we had to stop using the Ice Runway sooner than anticipated this year due to earlier and unexpected melting. As we gathered our stuff together from baggage claim once we arrived back in the US, we prepared to all walk our separate ways. The Chief gave me a hug and said “you know, you and I are a lot alike.” Coming from a woman who I didn’t always see eye to eye with, that was quite the compliment. “Take care, Chief,” I said, then turned and walked down the long hallway towards my next gate.

It was all over. Is all over. One year in Iraq, a summer at home, four months in Antarctica… Now it’s time to once again take the next step.

I just have to find it first.
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Procrastination [Dec. 16th, 2006|09:36 pm]
I just don't feel like doing anything today.  I have had a half-written email to Debbie minimized for about an hour.  I haven't entered any of the day's flights or activities into the computer yet.  I've been eyeballing my big mug, wishing it would magically refill itself with tea.  It's just one of those airfield days.  I did manage to run my guys through a short apparatus positioning class, so I can't say that I've done "nothing," but I do feel like I've done very little.  Short-timers syndrome is kicking my ass.  7 shifts left, if you're counting at home.

The Tanker is alive, again.  They were able to fix it that night, and brought it back the next morning.  Then it broke again.  So, a mechanic came back down, did some sort of voodoo dance, and it started working again.  It's older than me, and hasn't had an easy life, so I can't blame it.

The snow has melted.  My world, once covered in a beautiful white, is once again covered in a dusty brown.  Crews have been out for the past 3 weeks grading and smoothing out the roads as rivers of water from melting snow produce miniature Grand Canyons.  The Sea Ice, where Station 2 once sat, is no longer suitable for travel.  The airfield has been moved, just as in years past, to the Ross Ice Shelf (the side that never melts).  All the views have changed, but that doesn't compare to how much they'll change this time 3 weeks from now.

Oliver got back from Happy Camper's school today.  Despite having a tough crowd to have to put up with, and getting sunburned, he seemed in good spirits about the whole thing.  Joe is at Station 1 today, and by the sounds of the radio traffic, they've had as boring of a day as I.  They'll be able to pick their return dates in a few weeks, as will everyone else.

I'm going to try and finish this email, and perhaps my activity entry, and then it's off to bed.
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"Tankerkiller", or "How I Managed to Take Tanker 3 Out of Service After It Just Got Fixed" [Dec. 14th, 2006|10:17 pm]

I received a page last night as I was getting ready to go to bed.  "Tanker 3 is back in service."  Tanker 3 had been broken and sitting at the vehicle maintenance shop since mid-October.  Right after Mainbody started, it was pulling back into the station when suddenly it stopped going in reverse.  The transmission was kaput, and a new transmission was placed on order to be flown down from Christchurch to be installed.  Two months later, and it was back.  We had been using our reserve engine, Engine 2, in its place.  Engine 2 has a cracked tank, making it incapable of holding water.  To make a long explanation short, it was good to have the Tanker back...

For a few hours, anyway...

We were short a driver today, and so I had been assigned to drive the Tanker.  Its first day back in service.  Can you feel the excitement?  Our job for the morning was to give it a full check; drive it around for a while, run the pump (for the first time in 2 month), flow water, yadda yadda yadda.  No problem.  I drove around with Foster for about 15 or 20 minutes while maneuvering, backing up, turning around, down-shifting when going down hills, flooring the accelerator while climbing them, all in an attempt to see if everything is working the way it should be.  Success.  We went down to an area called 'The Transition' where the sea ice meets the island.  Since this area isn't used as a work site, we can flow water without worrying about making a mess.  

Park it.  Turn on the PTO.  Tank to Pump.  "Foster, stretch this hoseline."  "Ready for water?"  Discharge 2.  Throttle up.  "Everything good on that end?"  Check the gauges.  Looks good.  No leaks.  No god-awful noises.  Run for a few more seconds.  Throttle down.  Close Discharge 2.  Pull recirculation valve.  Throttle up.  "Let's let it run for 3 or 4 minutes."  Hop in cab.  Check gauges.  Everything looks good here.  Get out and stare at the pump panel.  My ears are cold.  Long enough.  Throttle down.  Close valves.  Roll hose.  PTO off.  "Let's go."

We had a very successful pump test, and our last chore was to stop by a hydrant and fill back up.  This, too, went off without a hitch.  Excellent, 10 minutes until lunch, and we're all done.  Time to go home.  We pull up to the apron and I let Foster out so he can back me up.  He closes his door, walks towards the open bay, and I pull around, and throw the Tanker in reverse.  Pressing the accelerator, I don't move an inch.  Huh.  Back to neutral, back to drive, back to neutral, back to reverse.  Accelerate.  Nothing.  Shit.  Traffic is stopped on both sides of me, drivers impatiently waiting for this huge truck to move out of their way.  One more time.  Nothing.  Fudge (not "fudge").  I look in front of me, praying that I have enough clearance to make the turn so I can at least get out of the middle of the road.  Putting the Tanker back in drive, I pull a hard left, just barely clearing the trash bins in front of our firehouse.  I park it, and John, the other D/O on shift today, comes over.  He told me to try something, to which I nodded and replied "ok," even though I already tried it.  I attempted to shift to reverse a half a dozen more times, but to no avail.  Damn it.  I pull around in the parking lot of the Galley, and drive back to the front of the firehouse.  "Dispatch, Tanker 3 is out of service, mechanical."

Tanker 3 was broken, again.  The transmission went out, again.  It stopped going in reverse, again.  It did this in front of the firehouse as it was backing in, again.

A little more than 12 hours after being placed back in service, all the equipment was put back on Engine 2, and it was driven back up to the vehicle maintenance facility.  Engine 2 was back in service, and 12 hours later we don't have any idea how long Tanker 3 will be out of service.

________________________________________

We have been having some fantastic shifts lately.  The crews who I have happened to be working with, the amount of quality training we've been doing, and the fact that we've actually gotten some calls, have all made for a great final stretch.  I have eight more shifts left before I head out of here.  I will be mailing some stuff home on Monday.  The time has caught me by surprise much more so than it ever did in Iraq.  I'll be on my plane exactly 3 weeks from tomorrow.

Oliver will be going to Happy Campers school tomorrow.  I'm hoping that he'll get decent weather, but right now it's up in the air.  Joe was given the opportunity to function as an "acting lieutenant" on Tuesday, as we ended up being short one due to our scheduling system.  He got to learn a little more about my end of the job, which he seemed to find interesting.  He even got himself two calls (one odor of smoke investigation, and one small hazmat leak).  All in all, it made for a great shift. 

Andre went to the South Pole yesterday.  Very exciting for him.  Joe, Oliver, Andre, and I never were able to get that group picture we wanted, as I will be leaving before Andre gets back to McMurdo.  Oh well.  That'll teach us to procrastinate.

________________________________________

I'm glad you're ok.

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ProblEMS [Dec. 9th, 2006|12:57 am]
Walking around to the back of the JSOC, Joint Spacecraft Operations Center (or what I like to refer to as “really really really expensive and important building number 3”), I let out an audible sigh as I realized that no, the door I was looking for was not on this side. My crew and I had just walked ¾ the way around the building to check off the final room in our inspection, the furnace room. The furnace room was the only room not accessible from the inside of the building, which we had just inspected. For a building where all sides looked identical, I couldn’t remember where the door was from memory. Peering around to the only remaining side, it mocked me as I saw dozens of pipes of different heights and diameters leading out of the building. These water lines were blocking my path, meaning that we would have to walk all the way back around to get to it. “Attention Station 1, Attention Station 1, standby for tones…” So much for that. My crew, Engine 2, and the ambulance crew took off running back to our rigs, which were parked about 50 yards away in an area called Derelict Junction, which is the main shuttle stop in town. “Station 1, respond for a report of a fractured ankle at the Derelict Junction shuttle stop…” By the time dispatch finished putting out the call, we had almost run right by it. Calling en route, arrived, and in command all in the same breath, we found our patient, a gentleman who had just fallen out of the shuttle while boarding (or attempting to board, in this case). While his shin did strike the van step during the fall, his ankle wasn’t injured, and his only major complaint was that of neck pain. After a quick assessment, he was immobilized and taken to the hospital. No fuss, no muss.

We spent a lot of time training today. We’ve been running into problems on our EMS calls lately, specifically in the area of teamwork. EMS calls down here get an average response of 5 people, and we’ve had some instances of those 5 people not interacting very proficiently and/or timely as a unit. So, at my urging, this afternoon we spent an hour or so running a couple of scenarios where 4 people (typically a Paramedic and 3 EMTs) had to work together to quickly treat, stabilize, and transport “patients” within a short amount of time, without the assistance or guidance of the 5th member of the team, their officers. Tony, the other lieutenant on shift at Station 1 today, and I acted as patients in similar “unconscious, unknown illness/injury” scenarios which required the groups to have to equate every possible scenario into their treatments of the patients. All in all, it was very productive and successful, and I think we’ve laid some great groundwork to improve on.

Geez… if that last sentence didn’t sound like a corporate statement, I don’t know what does. It’s true, but still…


I have 11 shifts left. Eleven. E-lev-en. Definitely does not feel like it. Of those eleven, two of those are on Sundays (where we don’t really do anything anyway), and five of them are out at the runway. The shifts seem to move quicker at the runway due to it very much being a 24 hour operation. Most work days don’t end until close to 3am every morning, as flights that departed McMurdo at 8 that evening are returning from the South Pole at that time. Then, there are always the unexpected calls, such as what happened last time I was at the runway. We had just finished with flights for the evening and I was passed out in the bunk in my office when Foster, one of our medics, came and woke me up. I heard him say something to the effect of “cut his head sitting dayroom,” to which I replied “Mmmharmph.” Translated, it means “Alright, I’ll be right there,” even though I was totally disorientated and confused, leaving me with no idea as to what was really going on. I walked out into our dayroom to find an airman (we have members of the US Air National Guard running flights down here) sitting in a chair, holding a bandage to his head. Ohhh… We had a walk-in medical call… Now I’m awake. The poor guy had apparently struck his head on an open compartment, and now had a nice laceration to his forehead. “Lemme see it.” I said to the guy. “Yup, that’s gonna need stitches. You got this Foster?” I asked him. “Yup. I’ll take Oliver to town in the ambo with me,” he replied. “Have fun,” I mumbled, and went back to bed after calling our dispatcher and giving her notification. My command consisted of four sentences and a 20 second phone call. Glorious.

Oliver promises pictures on Sunday. We’ll see… :)

MJK
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Thanksgiving [Nov. 25th, 2006|12:33 am]
It's that time of the year. Again. I feel caught in an odd Thanksgiving limbo.  The town is celebrating Thanksgiving tomorrow (Saturday), as to not interrupt the work week (and to give those folks on the Monday - Saturday "town schedule" a nice two day weekend).  Everyone at home is celebrating today, which is Friday for us.  I counted about a half dozen "Happy Thanksgivings" yesterday, as people attempted to keep grips on the traditional Thursday holiday.  Personally, I could care less.  Not the greatest attitude in the world, but for me, Thanksgiving has become just another dinner.  It's a big deal down here, and understandably so.  The food is cooked to perfection not only once, but for three different seating times.  While I will very much appreciate the time and care which has gone into the meal, I feel as if the spirit is once again lost in me.  Maybe it'll be different next year.  Hopefully it will.

Bryan decided that the life down here wasn't for him, and has gone home.  I can't blame him.  This isn't for everybody.  I feel as if things would have been different had Bryan been left on B-Shift with the rest of us, but one of the exciting aspects about coming down here was that we were all going to be on the same shift together.  He will be missed.

Andre is back.  He enjoyed his well deserved vacation, although I'd imagine it probably felt way too short.  He is staying on B-Shift, so he will be working with Oliver, Joe, and I.

I will be taking a "working moral trip" on Monday which I am thrilled to be able to do.  I will be flying to a glacier located within the Transantarctic Mountains to help dig out a fuel cache.  This is definitely one of those "authentic Antarctic experiences" that Andre so often talked about.  I can't wait to go.

MJK
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Catching up [Nov. 18th, 2006|12:04 am]
Another week's end is upon us.  Time doesn't wait for the weary down here, and we've been plenty busy to show for it.  Picarello, Oliver, and Badami have been busy taking our Driver/Operator course, and have just started the testing process.  There is no doubt in my mind that they'll do just fine with it.  Yes, even Picarello.  :)  And me?  It's all a blur.  Between Snow School, Sea Ice, D/O class stuff, being at Station 2, and dealing with day-to-day operations, life seems pretty packed lately.  This coming Wednesday will be my first K-Day since late September where I don't have anything to do.  I can finally sleep in, and am so excited about it.

I woke up this morning feeling like I was getting sick, but am a bit better now.  I am trying to blame it on just being dehydrated.  That way I don't have to blame it on being outside yesterday without a coat.  Just because it's Condition 2 at the runway doesn't mean it's THAT cold and windy, does it?


C-17.  Huge.


Watching it in person, it is hard to believe something this large can fly.


At the beginning of the storm.


Yay for Condition 2!!
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Sea Ice Training: Kinsey [Nov. 15th, 2006|11:20 pm]

Another one of the classes we take down here is a Sea Ice course.  This course allows us to be able to recognize cracks in the ice and measure their depth in the event that we need to drive over them.  By measuring them, we learn whether or not the crack can hold our weight or not.  It comes in handy when you need to drive a couple thousand pounds over top a few thousand feet of water.

 

A couple of the guys from the fire department were also there to take the class.  It’s nice to have some familiar company on something like this, if only for entertainment value.  Feeling the déjà vu, we loaded our gear and our drilling equipment into the back of our tracked vehicle and headed out.  We went to an area I had rode by on Saturday night while on our way to Cape Evans. 


 
Our sweet ride.




Mount Erebus, with Big Razorback in the foreground.

One of the skills we had to learn was a simple but important one.  In order to test the cracks, we had to be able to identify them.  Now, a crack in the ice seems like a pretty straightforward concept, but when you get into variances and classifications of cracks, it becomes a little more involved.  We stopped in an area a few miles away from Big Razorback, a large rock range, and checked out a large crack in the ice.  As our instructor was going over the different features, we started hearing a whining noise.  “Everybody get on the ground and put your ears on the ice.”  So, we did, and heard the noise again.  “You hear that?  Those are seals.”  As we were talking amongst ourselves, seals were talking to each other underneath our feet.  Cool.  Stopping every few minutes to appreciate their calls, we drilled and measured the depth of the ice.


Setting up the drill.


 
Taking measurements


After we took our measurements, we set out to find another crack.  We drove along for about a half hour before we reached Big Razorback.  There was a science field camp located out here, and they had reported a crack that they wanted checked out.  So, we grabbed our gear and started to walk towards the giant rock.  As we got closer, objects that looked like small rocks from a distance started moving.  We were looking for a crack located around a seal colony.  (It turns out that the science camp was there studying birth cycles of the females).  We kept our distance as we walked by, both to abide by US Antarctic Program “no interference” regulations, but also to avoid getting attacked.  According to the scientists, these seals seemed particularly protective of their young, which there were a great many of.  So, we walked, and stopped to take pictures, and walked again, and stopped to watch, and walked a little more.  We never did find the crack the scientists were talking about, but we had an astounding time just watching the seal’s behavior.  Pups were playing with their mothers; males were just lying around, picking their head up to acknowledge our presence, and then getting back to their nap.  Skuas, Antarctic birds, were hanging around the colony as well.  Skuas are scavengers, and were waiting their turn for any leftovers.  We probably spent an hour observing them before it was time to head back to town.  This was by far to coolest stroke of luck one could have down here (second only to coming across a group of penguins).


 
The colony


Checking us out.


What's up?


When we got back to town I walked to the firehouse to check back in.  Sitting in dispatch was Chris, one of the A-Shifters who came down with me at WinFly.  “So, what did you do during Sea Ice training?” I asked.  “Well, we got to go to [blah blah blah not very fun place],” he replied.

 

“Oh yea?  Well…”

 

 

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Cape Evans [Nov. 12th, 2006|09:33 pm]

Luck.  That’s the only way I can figure it.  I was walking to work on Friday morning and saw a recreation trip to Cape Evans posted, and there was one slot left.  The trip was scheduled for Saturday night at 7:30.

 

Cape Evans is located about an hour and a half away from McMurdo, and is the site used by the Robert Scott party seeking the South Pole back in 1910.  The building was still there, having been preserved in relatively “as was” fashion.  It was an opportunity to go see a living museum, and there was one slot left.  Hell yea.

 

As Saturday night rolled around, I got dressed in my ECW gear, still in a pile on my floor from Happy Campers, and headed out to the meeting point.  After a quick “don’t touch anything” briefing, we boarded a Delta and headed out of town.

 

Right before reaching “The Transition,” the spot where it goes from land to sea ice, a penguin was spotted.

 


A penguin!!!

 

This was the first time that many people down here had ever seen one, myself included.  They are known to visit the Ice Runway from time to time, but it’s not every day that one makes its way to the edge of town.  I hadn’t seen one yet, so I was just as excited as everyone else.  It was about 50 feet away, and seemed to be taking a nap as it didn’t move an inch while we were watching it, but it was a penguin all the same.

 

After gawking at our lame penguin for 15 minutes, we got back on the Delta and headed out to Cape Evans.  We passed by many points which I had only seen on maps; Little Razorback, Big Razorback, the Mount Erebus Glacier Tongue (a range of sea ice jutting from the rest), and a few other sites. 


 
From on top of a ridge, looking down at the hut.


We reached Cape Evans, and I looked on in amazement as we approached the almost 100 year old building.  From the exterior, it could have been built last month; it was just in that good of shape.  We walked throughout the building, areas separated by cabinets, beds, desks, and small rooms.  Cans of preserved veal still sitting on the shelves, a mummified penguin laying on a desk, boots and blankets on top of made beds…  It was like walking through a time portal.  The items showed their years, but it was all so… pure.



Food storage


A 90 year old dead penguin.  Yay science.


Dining table
 


The history and tales surrounding the men who lived here and attempted to reach the South Pole is lengthy and remarkable.  Sadly, none of the five men who reached the South Pole lived to tell their tales.  Extensive diaries were kept, and so their stories still live on today.

 

“Had we lived, I should have had a tale to tell of the hardihood, endurance, and courage of my companions which would have stirred the heart of every Englishman.  These rough notes and our dead bodies must tell the tale…”

-Robert Falcon Scott’s “Final Message to the Public,” 29 March 1912.


MJK

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Happy Campers: Kinsey [Nov. 9th, 2006|08:00 pm]

I woke up at Station 2 on Tuesday morning feeling exhausted.  We had been running flights all day until about 3am, 17 total (including one C-17 standby which lasted about 3 hours).  With only four hours of sleep, I was not looking forward to the next 36 hours.  I was scheduled to attend what is affectionately known as "Happy Campers," or Snow School.

Snow School is designed to train us how to survive in the middle of nowhere, should the situation occur.  We get dressed in all of our Extreme Cold Weather gear and go to a briefing and training session provided by the station's Field Safety Training Program folks.  At the conclusion of the briefing we loaded our personal gear, along with tents and other equipment, into a Piston Bully (a vehicle on tracks, about the size of a Volkswagen van), and we piled into a Delta. 
Deltas are large wheeled vehicles designed to muscle their way through snow drifts on the roads.  Roads in town are kept clear, however, the further out of town you get, the messier the roads may be. 

 

There were about 20 of us all together, not including the two instructors.  Of those 20, there were 2 A-Shift lieutenants, a fire dispatcher, and 1 A-Shift and 2 B-Shift firefighters along with me.  The 14 others were made up of various townies and scientists.  Most of the people in the class were scheduled to deploy to field camps, satellite research stations with their base operations in McMurdo.  For all of us, this class was a necessity.  Should there ever be a helicopter crash, an incident at a field camp, plane crash, or any other god-awful emergency away from town, only those who take this survival course are allowed to go.  After all, we are of no use to respond if we can’t take care of ourselves if the weather turns bad or if something unexpected happens.

 

We reached the path to the camp site after a 30 minute ride onto the ice shelf.  About 5 miles behind us was Scott Base, the New Zealand research station, which is a five minute drive from McMurdo.  In front of us was Mount Erebus, Antarctica’s “semper fi.”  Anywhere with a clear horizon is within site of the aged volcano.  To our left was Castle Rock, a huge boulder which sits atop the peninsula of Ross Island.  It was a beautiful day.  Maybe as warm as 24 degrees?  I never found out for sure.  There was hardly a breath of wind, and the sky was as clear as I’ve seen it down here.  All in all, we literally could not have had a better day for this training.  Observing my surroundings, I wasn’t dreading this as much as I had been.

 

Observation Hill, with Scott Base at the left of its feet.


 
Castle Rock (on top of the hill), Mt. Erebus in the distance.

After getting off the Delta, we had to walk a mile or two to the camp site.  We packed all our gear into a snow mobile that tagged along with us, and started our trek.  Close to a half hour later we reached the grounds.  In the area before us were the remains of previous camps.  Scattered about like ancient ruins, old snow shelters and walls were decaying from the wind; corners smoothed off, fortifications made of snow blocks frozen during mid-fall.  We unloaded our supplies and personal gear from the snow mobile and started the day’s activities.


 

Our first goal was to unpack the equipment we were going to use for building our structures.  We had brought several tents with us, so those were unpacked as well.  Our next task at hand was to build a Quincy Hut.  The huts are used as shelters, and involve making a big pile of snow and digging out the center.  The easiest was for this to be accomplished was to pile all of our gear bags in a tight group, cover them, and bury them in snow.  After doing this, we would only need to dig an entrance way to them, and pull them out one by one after the snow settled.  This would allow for the hut’s center to make itself.


A completed Quincy Hut.

 

After 45 minutes of shoveling and packing the snow, we had a decent sized hut completed.  Next on the agenda would be setting up tents and building a snow wall for protection from the inevitable winds.  With the snow as dry as it is down here, it is pretty easy for us to build walls.  Rather than simply pile snow on top of itself, we were actually able to use saws to cut entire 2 foot cubic blocks of snow.  These blocks of snow were strong enough to stand on top of, but light enough to pick up and build like toy blocks.


 
Building the wall.


Snow block quarry


The finished product.

After we got rolling, the instructors said their farewells and left us alone.  They would spend the night up the road in a heated building, far enough away for us to be self-sustaining, but close enough to assist in the event of an emergency.  It probably took about 5 hours total to build the entire camp, but now that everyone has done it, should we have needed to build it in an emergency, we could probably knock it out in an hour or two.  For as large as it was, I consider that to be a pretty good accomplishment.  But, should conditions deteriorate faster than expected, in 30 minutes we could have enough built to survive, at least for a while.  In any case…

 

The rest of the night was ours.  We boiled water using little camping stoves, and used that water to make our dinners; dehydrated meals of different items and flavors.  I got lucky and got my hands on a chicken/pasta/vegetable thing.  Others weren’t so lucky, and it was some mushroom mush for them.  It wasn’t a bad meal.  The pasta wasn’t hydrating for some reason, so in any given bite I’d have good tasting chicken chucks and hard, crunchy pasta bits.  I could have been worse.

 

 

Around 8 o’clock I went off on a hike with a small group of townies.  We didn’t really have a destination; we just wanted to check out the view from down the road.  We decided to walk to a trail which led up the several hundred foot hill to Castle Rock.  About a mile away, I estimated.  It took us about an hour or so to walk there.  It probably ended up being close to 3 miles.  It occurred to me how hard it was to tell distance.  You could walk for miles, and objects that started out far away didn’t move an inch.  The vastness of where you were engulfed you.





Chao, Galena, and I going on a hike.

 

We got back to camp a little after 10, and I decided it was probably a good time to try and sleep.  I had claimed a Quincy Hut about 50 yards from our camp.  This Quincy was used by another group a few weeks ago, and took a little bit of work before I could occupy it.  The wind had chiseled away at it, creating some holes.  I figured that I could cover them up a bit, and it would be good enough to inhabit for the night.  Getting set up inside was a battle in itself.  The interior was big enough for a hobbit to live in, so me in all my gear, trying to unroll pads, a sleeping bag, and unpack my backpack wasn’t working out too well.  After fighting with my surrounding for a little while, I was set up and ready for bed.  Once again, I was thrown back to Iraq as I tried to climb into my sleeping bag.  I brushed up against the walls and ceiling as I worked to zip myself up.  The good news, I thought, was that my close quarters would allow for me to keep warm pretty easily, as there wasn’t much room for any heat to escape.

 

I was wrong.

 

I woke up around 1 in the morning, and I was freezing.  I started to notice all the daylight still visible in my Quincy.  The wind had picked up while I was asleep, and the holes which I worked to refill were again gaping.  Shit.  Ok, training… think.  I’ll eat something.  Eating offers a quick fix for getting warm.  Nope, not working.  Do I have to pee?  No.  Damn.  That usually helps too (as our bodies spend energy and heat in keeping our urine warm inside our bodies, so going to the bathroom allows for us to redirect our heat to other areas).  I decided to fight with my hut again and attempt to dig some more of my ECW gear out of my bag.  Heavier gloves (as mine had literally frozen), an extra layer to lie on, to keep myself off the frozen ground… nothing was working.  I couldn’t stop shivering.  My hands and toes were numb.  Time to abandon ship.

 

I grabbed my sleeping bag and padding and tried to find a new place to sleep.  Any room in one of the tents?  Nope.  Nope.  Ugh!  You full?  Ok, thanks away.

 

Finally I came across the tent where Galena and Chao, two girls who I went on the hike with, were sleeping.  After telling them what happened, they invited me in to stay the remainder of the night.  It was like a sauna in there.  Well, actually, it was probably about 30 degrees, but it was out of the wind and warmer than where I just came from, so it worked.  I was able to fall back asleep after a little while, and slept like a log the rest of the night. 

 

The next morning we awoke around 7 to start disassembling the camp and make breakfast.  Yummy oatmeal.  Not the greatest breakfast in the world, but it was warm.  It only took us about an hour to pack everything up.  The instructors came back and we walked up to a building where we had a debriefing about the night’s events.  We still had another day of school to go through, and we were all ready to go home.

 

The rest of the day wasn’t nearly as interesting as the previous.  Some training on using the radios (WWII style), searching for crew members during white-out conditions, and the such.  We got back to town around 2, went through 2 small safety trainings, and it was over.

 

After dinner I walked back to my dorm, took off my ECW gear, took a hot shower, and went to bed.  I was off the next day, and was planning on sleeping as long as possible.

 

And I did.  It was glorious.

 


MJK

(All photos by Dan Duncan)

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Peanut Butter and Jelly [Oct. 31st, 2006|10:04 am]
I just walked across the Ross Ice Shelf wearing slippers on my feet. Not the entire ice shelf, obviously. Actually, it was probably only about 50 feet. But still, there were slippers involved.

The weather folks have posted the time of the next sunset. February 20th, 2007 at 1:55 am. The next sunrise will be 27 minutes later.

What a loooooong day. I'm out at Station 2 today, and unlike my previous day out here, we have been running since 0800. We've had 10 flight standbys, not including the 3 hour C-17 offload affair. It's a little after 11 at night, and I am just getting ready to start my work for the evening. I've got to make some changes to the November schedule, log all the day's activities... and I think there's something else that I can't remember, too. Oliver and Joe are out here, which has helped to keep me sane. Actually, we have a great dynamic within the 6 of us who are out here today; everyone is a comedian.

Tomorrow is Picarello's first K-Day, meaning that he is off when the rest of his shift is working. I am going to try to organize a hike for us all to go on, but we'll see what the weather is going to be like. The wind has been picking up tonight.

MJK
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